Service & Maintenance Troubleshooting – Part I

hvac and ozone cabinet

This entry goes over the standard troubleshooting that is performed during periodic check-ups on a system or if it is suspected of not performing properly.

It looks like a long list of things to do, but in practice it only takes a few moments. The installation of a gauge assembly on the system makes it much easier.

To have the expected amount of ozone oxidizing the water, four factors have to be taken into account. If one of these is not working properly it will result in a reduced amount of ozone oxidizing the water, and thus low ORP and ozone ppm readings.

These factors include the ozone generator, air preparation system, confirming there are no air leaks and general water properties that affect the ozone’s oxidation potential.

 

The Ozone Generator

In all of our systems there is a display light of some kind that you typically see during ozone production. If it is illuminated, we can expect ozone is being generated.

All of our corona discharge ozone generators are “all-or-nothing” type machines. The cause for a reduction in ozone output will likely be found in the three sections. There are enough diagnostics built-in to most systems that will disable the “ozone” light if there is an issue.

If the output light is not illuminated, please observe any other lights on all circuit boards, along with all gauge readings for us to continue with the troubleshooting of the unit. At this point gathering the model and serial number of the unit is rather helpful.

The test: If you wish to confirm ozone is being generated, read on.

The overall test for the ozone generator is simply disconnecting the tubing leading in and out of the unit and blowing air manually through the generator while it is on and the output lights indicate it is producing ozone.

Note: Do not breathe the ozone directly into your lungs. Let the outlet gas flow into one’s hand and smelling said hand.

If ozone is smelled, then the generator is working.

If ozone is not smelled, note down all display lights, gauge readings. Write down the model and serial number of the unit and contact your distributor or ClearWater Tech to continue troubleshooting.

 

Questions that may come up during the test:

1. Where is this inlet and outlet tubing?

The outlet tubing is easy to find, it is likely connected to a stainless steel bulkhead fitting, where a PVC check valve may be installed. It is an opaque, ¼” Teflon delivery line.

If a check valve is present, temporarily remove it as they are difficult to blow through.

The inlet tubing connection can vary from model to model. Typically you will disconnect tubing from the gauge assembly and blow air into the bottom of it, lifting the ball on the SCFH gauge. Usually this is a 3/8” thick-walled, braided tubing.

Alternatively, you can open the cover of the unit and follow the tubing that connects to the top of the reaction chamber(s) and find a convenient location on the underside of the unit to route air into the reaction chambers.

2. I see two or more reaction chambers in the unit, is that going to make a difference?

If the ozone generator has two or more reaction chambers, you may want to disable power being sent to one of the drive boards of a chamber to individually test each reaction chamber for ozone, as they are independent from each other.

This is done by disconnect a power plug that will cause the “ozone” light on that board no longer be lit when the system is powered on again.

The air inlet tubing will be a common port shared by the fitting at the top of each reaction chamber, blow air into this common port for the test.

3. What’s dangerous inside this unit? I don’t want to lose limbs.

Yes, there’s high voltage in the box. If you disconnect the power cord, you’ll be fine.

If you happen to have the generator in operation, with the cover off, keep clear of the top of the reaction chambers. Typically there is a high voltage sticker in the area. Normally you are not going to operate the unit while it is uncovered unless we’re troubleshooting within the unit.

If we are operating the unit without the cover, follow the usual guideline of not touching anything inside the electrical device while it is powered.

4. Nothing works! Now there are no lights and the fan isn’t coming on. What happened?

There is a door interlock switch that is depressed by the cover to turn the unit off when the cover is lifted. Replace the cover to operate the system, or manually depress the switch with a pen/pencil/screwdriver.

The location of the interlock switch will vary depending on model. If you cannot find it, look to the inside of the cover for the peg that will engage the switch in order to find the corresponding location.

Continue to Part 2

– Authored by Chad Relis, Service Manager, ClearWater Tech, LLC

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Rebates & Incentives – More Advantages of Using Ozone Laundry Systems

Residential Laundry Rebates

Laundry is a DIRTY WORD around most households, but inevitable. Everyone has to do it and like most large families, we wash between 7 to 10 loads of laundry a week. Ugh. We were spending to much TIME and MONEY on our water and gas bill, let alone time spent in the laundry room! So my husband and I hunkered down and replaced our old top loader systems with an ENERGY STAR front loading washer and dryer.

I still hate doing laundry, but love knowing how much time and money we’re saving. First of all, they are stackable so they leave very little footprint. They require less water, hold larger loads and save energy in reduced water heating. We also wash fewer loads – so more time for fun stuff. To top it off, our local gas company sent us a rebate check for $200. Very nice.

Commercial Laundry Rebates with Ozone Laundry Applications

Commercial laundry applications have now joined the list of energy efficient technologies eligible for rebates and incentives. When you install an ozone laundry system you not only reap the energy efficient benefits and money savings, but your business can qualify for a rebate. Read more of this post