Service & Maintenance Troubleshooting- Part 4, continued

Water Chemistry

This area is typically explored when we suspect low ozone output, and the first three sections show to have no issues.
If you still have low readings, we’d look at the final things might cause this.

Abnormal pH

7.2 is optimal for ozone, the farther you are away from 7.2 you will experience lower ozone oxidation and ppm retention time.

Higher temperature

themmeasure100

The hotter the air or water is, the faster ozone will convert back to oxygen. Anything over 85 ° F will be considered ‘hot’ by these systems. As temperatures will normally go over this level depending on season or heated pools, all ozone systems are typically over sized to take this into consideration.

Atmospheric breaks

While pressurized in a contact tank or in the pipe, ozone will oxidize the water and build up a small residual ppm level before converting back to oxygen.

If the pressure is suddenly lost due to being introduced to an open (atmospheric) tank or a water feature such as a waterfall, we can expect the ozone to jump out of solution of the water. Oxidation and ppm retention will continue, but at a reduced level in and after this point.

man sleeping on desk
Congratulations, you made it to the end! Go take a nap.

If you have any questions, please contact your distributor or ClearWater Tech.

Chad Relis
Service Manager
ClearWater Tech, LLC.
p: 800-262-0203×23
f: 805-549-0306
service@cwtozone.com

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Service & Maintenance Troubleshooting- Part 3, continued

Air Leaks

Most installations of our ozone generators involve a venturi injector plumbed into a pressurized water line; this creates a suction that draws the ozone gas into the water.

If there are any breaks in the line, or in any component, ambient air enters the line supplanting the ozone, diluting it or if the leak is far enough back, corrupting the dried air from the air prep. Any of these things will result in lowering the ozone output of a system.

Test #1:

This test is used if you have a vacuum/SCFH gauge mounted on the ozone generator.
Insure the needle is kept between -3 to -8”Hg. This is likely color-coded to a “green” area of the gauge.
If the needle cannot be brought into the ideal zone, and remains at 0 or -1”Hg proceed to Test #2 to find the leak.

Test #2:

This test is used if you do not have a vacuum gauge assembly installed on the ozone generator.
Confirm the level of vacuum at the injector is maintained throughout the ozone system

• Okay, give me the steps…

First, turn off the ozone generator. We’ll be disconnecting tubing and we do not want to expel any more ozone out into the room. Disconnect the tubing at the injector and place your thumb over the injector fitting. You’re going to use the tactile suction present to give you a baseline level of suction. Compare this level of suction to each point of tubing connections after reconnecting the injector. Proceed to the end of each tubing connection starting from the injector back to the air preparation system.

Typical Wall-Mount Installation

Typical Wall-Mount Installation

Specifically check before and after vacuum break (the J-shaped thing that may be mounted on the wall next to the ozone generator). This is a water trap to keep the ozone generator from getting wet if the check valves fail. In order to remain sealed, there needs to be water on top of the white PVC flapper valve in the base of the J-break.

If vacuum is felt before the ozone generator, but is not detected after it; our leak is obviously within the ozone generator. Insure the power cord is disconnected and remove the cover of the unit. Continue to check within the ozone generator, before and after the reaction chambers is an ideal test.

By now, you’ve verified there are no leaks or have found an area that is leaking. Consult with your distributor or ClearWater Tech to find out what is involved in resolving the leak (usually maintenance).

Continue to part 4

– Authored by Chad Relis, Service Manager, ClearWater Tech, LLC

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